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VALBONË

CROWN OF THE ALBANIAN ALPS

HIKING up to the VALBONË PASS

Valbona and the Valbonë Valley National Park is absolutely worth the effort to get there.  The pictures above speak for themselves.  The trek is doable even for first timers, though there is a portion of the trek near to the Valbonë Pass where a wrong step may lead to slipping off trail. 


The transfer from Fierze took some 75 minutes, arriving at it stop point at the Fusha E Gjes Hotel, after dropping passengers at their respective lodgings in the valley.  My lodging was made through the host in Shkodër where the homestay owner was their relative and the rate would be affordable.   A Finnish Traveler by the name of Ville asked if he could join me at my homestay.  I had no issues but our host just was not there at the Hotel to pick us up.  We were lucky that we were allowed to use the internet at the hotel restaurant to establish communication with Shkoder, who helped informed the Lamthi homestay (most likely) about our arrival.  Our host, who didn’t speak a word of English finally picked us up at 1430hrs with a Mercedes Benz.  Upon checking in, he suggested through signing that we could do a hike behind the house up the hill to get a feel of the Valbona Valley.  I did the hike alone, as my newfound company was too tired to join me.


The hike was worth it and I felt like singing “The hills are alive with the sound of music.”  The scenery was so pretty that I felt light in my footsteps despite having been up since 0600hrs. 
We went to bed by 2100hrs after a rather relaxing dinner until the sky is too dark to remain seated in the patio.  We did not wake up until 0800hrs when the day is all warm and sunny.  By 0930hrs, our host had drove us out to the start point of the hike.  With the past 18hours disconnected, I felt the urge to check my emails and asked Ville to commence the walk first as I would catch up.  The emails took an hour or so and it was 1100hrs when I started the hike proper from the Fusha E Gjes Hotel.


I started out the walk fast and I had reached Rrogam by 1200hrs.  However, in my haste, I went straight ahead instead of turning right up the trail, as there was no one else in front as I had overtaken everyone else.  I ended up at a waterfall where some locals were basking in the waters and the sunlight.  I asked them if there was a trail up, which they replied that they do not know of.  I backtracked once, went back to the waterfall again, and backtracked again further on the second time all the way to Rrogam.  This was well I finally saw the sign pointing to Theth.  By now I had lost another hour and it wouldn’t be possible to catch up with the Finnish.  I took the ascent at my own pace, taking lots and lots of photographs, and reminiscence the view of the waterfall from afar.  Entering the wooded portion of the ascent, there were many other hikers taking a break in the shade while I trodded up, heaving. At a clearing after the wooded portion, I can see many hikers ahead attempting a steeper ascent.  I finally reached the top at 1530hrs, marveling at the sight of the scenic mountains in the Valbona Valley.
At the pass of 1795m, one could even go slightly higher to 1815m.  The view to the Theth valley on the other side of the pass, paled in comparison.  Going downhill was also a painful ordeal in the seemingly unbroken pair of Salewa.  The path was neither too steep nor slippery, but it was just painful with each and every step.  I eventually reached the foot hills to the village of Theth at around 1900hrs, an extra hour on the descent compared to the time duration for the ascent. 

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Valbona on a shoestring, how much did I spend?


-    500leke – Furgon to Lake Koman Ferry Point (Pay 5€ if you have no leke)
-    500leke – Ride on the Dragobia (Pay 5€ if you have no leke)
-    500leke – 21-seater transfer to Valbona (Pay 5€ if you have no leke)
-           30€ – Homestay for the night with the following breakdown:
o 15€ for the bed
 No Wi-Fi;
 It was too cold to shower after dinner and I do not remember a hot shower option. 
 No heating in the room but blankets were available.
o   5€ for dinner with a beer
 mostly vegetarian and cheese, no meat, tomato rice, bread
o   5€ for breakfast
 There was bread an egg, some pickles, cheese, no meat
o   5€ for lunch pack up the hills
 There was a drink, a cucumber, an apple, some bread with pickles
- There were no shops around and I had finished all my food, save a few snack bars.
- Look up the Shkodra; Koman; and Theth pages for local expenditures. expenditures.


What should I have done?


- Bring more food along from Shkoder.  There are water points and the water tastes good.  The amount of food served was enough for me to lose a kilo or two of weight after the hike.  In my opinion, the extra weight from the food may have been worth it.  There is a café up the pass and another after, but sitting down would have spent more time than is necessary, and one would not get to snack whenever one is hungry.
- Though I enjoyed the experience at Valbona, I would have commenced the walk sooner to reach Theth to catch any furgon back to Shkoder.  This would have save a whole day, which I could have used to visit Rozafa Castle, or spend one more day in Montenegro.  The whole Lake Koman; Valbona; and Theth circuit could even be done in a day.  Assuming the transfer to Valbona reaches the start of the hike by 2pm, a 5-hour hike would means reach Theth at 7pm, and if one is lucky, a furgon could be arranged, but it would be too rush and would not do the trip justice.
- Wear comfortable shoes that has been broken in.  When I started out on this 3-month long trip, I did not think I will be doing any trekking.  In Bulgaria, I trek the hills behind Boyana Church to get to the waterfall with just flip-flops.  So I resolve to get a pair of well-worn hiking shoes and where else better to get something well worn, than from a second hand store.  At a store in Prishtina, I set my eye on a Salewa Mountain Trainer Approach, which was the right side and fit.  I would use it to travel between cities to lighten the load.  The grip was good up the trek, but the trip down was painful.  Each and every step was pain.  This is probably why I took 8 hours for the trek apart from an hour detour to the waterfall.  The time taken for the downhill hike was 3.5hours compared to the uphill hike of 2.5hours from Rrogam.  By the time I did the hikes at the high Tatras 6 weeks later, the shoes had finally been broken in. 
- Get a local SIM card for Albania if there is something available that has reliable signal in the mountains.  Most hikers have reported weak signal in the valley. The alternative would be to stay in a homestay with WIFI.
- Keep the head cool and use common sense.  Trails are all well marked. If there is no marking, it likely is not the right track.
- Book somewhere else with free Wi-Fi and a hot shower..

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Verdict: 6 Stars

The Albanian Alps at Valbone is one of the most memorable highlights during a 3-month long trip in Eastern Europe across 16 countries.   The scenery is comparable to the Swiss Alps, without burning a hole in the pocket.  It has also yet to be overrun with tourists and groups.  The trails and paths are manageable even by amateurs and children, and most people who can walk will be able to complete the trek.   The risk of altitude sickness is minimal as it is still less than 1815m along the main route between Valbona and Theth.  There is also no risk of bear attacks, aggressive bees, nor birds pooping purposefully overhead, though I have seen centipedes.  The trouble to get there was all worth it, and I would like to return one day .

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© 2022 by the DESIGN REVIEWER.

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